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Diamond Education (An educated diamond shopper maximizes the value of their purchase and acquires so

Knowledge is Power. And never before has the consumer been more empowered by information technology! To ensure that you have all the facts necessary to make a brilliant choice when choosing your diamond, Bellaire Jewelry provides the most extensive knowledge base in the industry. From a comprehensive FAQ to our diamond grading articles written in collaboration with the American Gem Society Laboratories, we provide helpful guidance for those completely new to diamonds as well as technical articles for seasoned diamond enthusiasts.

The Diamond 4 C’s:(Beginner)

  • Diamond Clarity

The subject of diamond clarity is an interesting one. The impurities in diamond create a “fingerprint” that is unique for every diamond. In that regard they are quite helpful in providing identifying characteristics. And while there are many types of diamond inclusions, and they are the subject of much interest and discussion on the part of diamond shoppers, the practical impact of many diamond clarity grades on diamond beauty is surprisingly small!

The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) created the diamond color and clarity grading scale in the 1950’s. Most laboratories use the same framework today. The clarity scale ranges from Flawless (no internal or external features visible to a trained grader under 10x magnification) to imperfect diamonds that are so heavily included that they lack transparency and/or have durability issues. While a high percentage of commercial jewelry is made using imperfect diamonds, the percentage of laboratory certified diamonds in the middle and upper portion of the scale is quite high.

There are eleven clarity grades in the GIA system and it can be said that diamonds within the top six grades are almost certain to be clean to the naked eye, or “eye clean”, when viewed normally in the face-up position. When a diamond is clean to the naked eye and does not have clarity features that diminish light performance to an appreciable degree, the clarity grade has virtually no impact on the visual appearance of the diamond. Even if the diamond is six or seven grades down the scale! Clarity is the only one of the diamond 4 C’s where this is true.

In a sense it can be said that “Clarity is Rarity”. Diamond prices are generally predicated on rarity. The bigger, the cleaner and better color the diamond is, the higher the price. So, for the most part, until you get into the Imperfect range, the clarity grade only impacts price and has little or no bearing on beauty.

  • Diamond Color A diamond’s color impacts both its appearance and its value. The color grading of diamonds is based on a scale which is a continuum of color intensities ranging from colorless to obviously tinted. The color grades are very small increments along this continuum starting at D and progressing to Z. This is known as the “normal range” of diamond color. Colors beyond Z are referred to as “fancy colors” and are graded in a completely different way. In general, diamond values fall through the normal range and then abruptly begin to increase once color strength hits the fancy range. For the purposes of this article we confine the discussion to color grading in the normal range.

  • Colorless Diamonds:

  • D - perfectly colorless. The D color diamond is the ultimate color grade in the normal range and appears icy white.

  • E – colorless. Only when compared to a D color in a clinical environment does a very slight body color become vaguely noticeable in an E color diamond.

  • F - colorless. An F color diamond will look icy white and not show any apparent color from any viewing angle, except when compared to master diamonds by a trained grader.

  • Near Colorless Diamonds

  • G – top of the near colorless range. The G color diamond is virtually indistinguishable from colorless in real world situations.

  • H - solidly near colorless. An H color diamond looks white, even when viewed from the side and even in larger sizes.

  • I – solidly near colorless. The I color diamond looks white enough to be set in white gold or platinum without creating any significant contrast.

  • J – near colorless. The J color diamond “faces up” white, particularly if it has optimal light performance.

  • Diamond Carat

Of the commonly referred to “4 C’s” of diamond quality, “carat” is one of the first things mentioned when talking about diamonds. While it is the most basic physical attribute of a diamond, there are some important things that you should know to fully understand the first “C”- diamond carat.

Carat is a measure of WEIGHT. The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. This term comes from ancient times when gems were weighed against the carob bean. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams, or one fifth of a gram.

  • Diamond Cut (Shape)

When selecting a diamond, the shape of the diamond itself is one of the most important considerations. Each of the various diamond shapes has its own unique characteristics. Like all jewelry and fashion items, the most popular diamond shapes can depend on current trends and fads. Below you will find a description of the different diamond shapes you are most likely to encounter. Currently the two most popular shapes are the round brilliant and the princess cut.

  • Diamond Cut Basics

Cut quality is the only diamond value factor that is the result of human input. This vital factor may be the most difficult to understand because it is the most technical, but gaining a basic understanding of diamond cut is important to making a wise buying decision. Cut refers to the proportioning, alignment and finish of a diamond's polished faces or facets. Proper cutting enables a diamond to perform at its best and release its full potential for fire and brilliance. A well cut diamond will be more beautiful and more valuable than a diamond whose cut quality has been compromised for carat weight.

  • Diamond Cut Analysis

There are two approaches used to analyze diamond cut quality. Traditional proportion assessment utilizes a 2 dimensional approach that takes the outer measurements of a diamond and predicts how it will handle light. Modern performance assessment measures the actual light behavior of the diamond and compares it to established standards.

Laboratory Cut Grading – Different Approaches

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a proportion based system which provides an overall cut grade for round diamonds only. The GIA system consists of 5 grades: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. The system takes into account seven factors: brightness, fire and scintillation (appearance based aspects) and weight ratio, durability, polish and symmetry (craftsmanship aspects). The cut grade is rendered by comparing measurements to predefined grading tables based upon GIA’s extensive research.

The American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL) grades the cut of round diamonds and some fancy shapes based on light performance with scores from 0 (Ideal) to 10. This system takes into account eleven factors: brightness, dispersion, leakage and contrast (Light performance aspects) and girdle thickness, culet, weight ratio, durability, and tilt (proportion factors) and polish and symmetry (finish aspects). Light performance is calculated mathematically by ray tracing a 3 dimensional model of the diamond and taking into account the contribution of every facet.

You might say that proportions assessment looks at the container and performance assessment looks at the contents. Because the AGS cut grading system is much more sophisticated and less forgiving, consumers looking for the finest cut craftsmanship prefer AGS reports when available.

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